Robok
A few small tools. They never leave your laptop.
Robok is a tiny toolbox of browser-only utilities — turn documents into Markdown, unlock a protected PDF, or guess what a fill-up will cost. No accounts, no uploads, no servers involved. Pick one below.
The idea
One rule, applied to everything we build here.
Every tool on Robok follows the same constraint: if it can't run entirely in your browser tab, it doesn't belong here. That rules out a few conveniences — no saved history, no account, no "process this on our server" fallback — in exchange for one guarantee that never has an asterisk.
Most toolkit sites
- A different tool for every task, each with its own account and quirks
- Your file usually passes through a server to get processed
- Free tiers nudge you toward a subscription eventually
Robok
- A handful of tools, one shared design, zero accounts
- Every one of them runs in the tab you already have open
- Nothing to subscribe to, because there's no server bill to cover
Using Robok
Three steps, no matter which tool
Pick a tool
From the constellation above or the Tools menu in the header — same three, either way.
It runs in this tab
A small library loads once from a public CDN, then everything happens in memory, right here.
Nothing is sent anywhere
Copy, download, or read your result — then close the tab and it's gone, the same way it arrived.
Good to know
A few honest answers
Those sites are fine — they're just built to route your file through a server, because that's how most tools are built by default. Robok exists for the times that feels like the wrong trade for a task this small.
Maybe — anything that can genuinely run entirely in a browser tab is fair game. Anything that can't, isn't, no matter how useful it'd be.
"Safe" is a big word — what's true is narrower: nothing you drop into these tools is uploaded, logged, or stored anywhere, by design, not by policy. Check each tool's own page for the specifics of how it works.
Document → Markdown
Turn documents into Markdown. Without them leaving your laptop.
Drop a Word, PDF, Excel, or PowerPoint file below. It's read and parsed right here, in this browser tab — then you paste the clean Markdown into whichever model you're using, at a fraction of the tokens the original file would cost.
The process
Three steps, all in this tab
Drop a file
Choose any supported document. It's read into memory with the browser's File API — nothing is queued for upload.
Parsed in your tab
A handful of open-source libraries — Mammoth, PDF.js, SheetJS — turn the file's structure into clean Markdown, on your machine.
Copy or download
Paste the result into whichever model you're using, or save it as a plain .md file for later.
Coverage
What it reads
Five format families, each converted with a purpose-built parser instead of one catch-all guess.
Images, audio, and video aren't supported here, on purpose. Reading them well enough to matter means running a model, and a model means a server call. We'd rather leave a gap in the format list than quietly send your file somewhere to fill it.
Where the file goes
Nowhere. That's the whole point.
We load a few open-source parsing libraries once, from a public CDN. After that, your document is read straight into memory and never leaves the tab.
Most document converters
- Your file is uploaded to a server before anything happens
- Conversion depends on that server being up, and fast
- The file — and whatever's inside it — sits in someone's logs
Robok
- Parsing runs in the browser tab you already have open
- Works on a train, a flight, or a locked-down network
- Nothing about the file's contents is transmitted, ever
Why bother converting first
Markup costs tokens. Words don't.
A one-page Word document is mostly XML underneath — styles, theme data, revision history — wrapped around a few hundred words. Paste that raw into a model and you're paying to have it parse markup it doesn't need. Markdown keeps the words, the headings, and the tables, and throws the rest away.
Good to know
A few honest answers
Nothing to clean up — it was never sent anywhere. Closing the tab clears it from memory, same as any other unsaved browser data.
Yes, once the page and its libraries have loaded once in a given session. There's no per-conversion network call.
Scanned PDFs — photos of pages, with no embedded text layer — have nothing for this tool to read. That's a job for OCR, and OCR is a job for a model, which is the one dependency we're avoiding here.
PDF → Unlocked PDF
Unlock a protected PDF. Without it leaving your laptop.
Drop a password- or permission-protected PDF below. Enter the password if it needs one, and get back a normal, unprotected file — decrypted right here, in this browser tab.
The process
Three steps, all in this tab
Drop a PDF
Choose any password- or permission-protected PDF file.
Enter the password
Only if it needs one — some PDFs just restrict printing or editing and open with no password at all.
Download, unlocked
Get back a normal PDF with the encryption and every restriction removed.
Good to know
A few honest answers
This removes protection, it doesn't crack it — you need to already know the password, or the PDF needs none to open (just restricted permissions).
The output has no open password and none of the original printing, copying, or editing restrictions. Anyone with the file can use it freely, so only unlock files you're allowed to share that way.
It covers standard PDF encryption — RC4 and AES, 40- to 256-bit, which is what the vast majority of "protected" PDFs use. Third-party DRM systems are a different, much rarer thing, and aren't covered.
Gauge → Litres & Cost
Guess the litres and cost to fill up. Right from your dashboard needle.
Match the gauge to your dashboard, pick your car or key in the tank size yourself, and get a friendly estimate of the litres, range, and cost to fill up — worked out right here, nothing saved anywhere.
Your car's tank
Not sure of the numbers? Pick your car below and we'll fill them in.
Where's the needle right now?
Drag across the lines to match your dashboard, then fine-tune with the slider.
Fuel economy
From your car brochure's consumption figure — used to estimate driving range.
≈ 15.4 km/L
Estimate
Based on the level, capacity and fuel economy above.
Cost to fill
Switch currency and your price auto-converts using this rate.
The process
Three steps, all in this tab
Pick your tank
Choose your car from the list, or type in the tank size and fuel economy yourself.
Match the needle
Drag across the gauge or nudge the slider until it matches your dashboard.
Read the estimate
Litres needed, range, and cost to fill up, updating instantly as you adjust anything above.
Good to know
A few honest answers
Rough published tank sizes and consumption figures for common models sold in Malaysia and Singapore. Your actual car may vary slightly — the manual capacity field is always there if the preset doesn't match.
No — nothing is written to disk or sent anywhere. Refresh the page and it's back to the defaults, same as every other tool here.
Made this over teh tarik levels of confidence, not a calibrated fuel sensor — dashboard needles lie a little, pump prices shift with the wind, and your actual fill-up may vary by a litre or two. Treat it as a friendly estimate to plan your trip to the pump, not the absolute truth. Drive safe, fill up before the light blinks red, and lambat sikit takpe, yang penting selamat. 🚗⛽
Wealth → Freedom Number
What's your freedom number?
The moment your wealth crosses 25× your yearly spending, work becomes optional. Enter three numbers to see where you stand today, then explore the calculators below to close the gap.
Get started
Everything below recalculates instantly as you type — nothing is uploaded or stored.
Your freedom number
Based on the classic 25× rule (a ~4% sustainable withdrawal rate) and your bucket mix below.
Shift map — how the mix typically moves, age 20 → 90
A common pattern: Growth leads while you're building, Horizon takes over once income tapers, and the Reserve stays roughly steady throughout to cover near-term spending.
Step 1
Sort your money into three buckets
A short-term Reserve, a Growth engine, and a long-horizon compounder. Drag the sliders, or let your age suggest a starting mix.
Step 2
Watch each bucket compound
Set a return assumption per bucket and a time horizon — each one grows on its own curve.
Year-by-year table
Step 3
Plan the spend-down order
Draw from the Reserve first so the Growth and Horizon buckets keep working — one clock, each bucket handing off to the next as it empties.
Year-by-year table
Calculator
Accumulation calculator
Add money on a schedule and see what compounding turns it into.
Year-by-year table
Calculator
Drawdown calculator
Draw a fixed amount from a pot and see how many years it can support you.
Year-by-year table
Calculator
Full-life simulator
Phase 1 grows your money with regular contributions. Phase 2 picks up wherever Phase 1 leaves off and draws it down. One chart shows whether the money outlasts the plan.
Phase 1 · Accumulation
Phase 2 · Retirement drawdown
Your whole plan in one curve
Year-by-year table
Reference
The playbook
How the calculators above relate, and the rules of thumb worth knowing before you trust any number on this page.
Regular contributions plus time plus a return rate — the accumulation calculator shows what that combination compounds into.
Flip it around: start with a pot, take a fixed amount out on a schedule, and see how many years it holds up.
Chain the two together — years of saving feeding straight into years of spending — so you can see the whole arc in one chart.
Rules of thumb
01What return rate should I actually use?
Long-run averages sit around 7–10% for diversified equities and 3–5% for bonds, before inflation — but averages hide bad decades. Run your numbers a second time at something noticeably lower. A plan that only survives at the optimistic end isn't really a plan.
02Why does inflation matter so much in retirement?
At roughly 2.5–3% inflation, everyday costs double every 25–28 years. Leave inflation out of a multi-decade withdrawal plan and you're quietly planning to live on half your current lifestyle by the end of it.
03Does starting early really matter that much?
Yes — disproportionately. Compare 10 years of contributions against 20 with identical inputs in the accumulation calculator: the second decade typically outgrows the first two combined, because it compounds on a much bigger base. Time is the one input you can't buy back later.
04How much can I safely withdraw each year?
A widely used starting point is about 4% of the pot in year one, rising with inflation after that, aimed at funding roughly 30 years. Push meaningfully past that rate and the drawdown calculator's depletion curve will show it collapsing early.
05What's sequence-of-returns risk?
Two portfolios can earn the identical average return over 30 years and still end very differently — the one that suffers a downturn in its first few withdrawal years recovers far worse than the one that doesn't. It's a big part of why a Reserve bucket of stable, near-term money matters heading into retirement, not just the size of the total pot.
06Does contribution frequency (monthly vs. quarterly) matter?
Barely. The amount you contribute, the return you earn, and the years you stay invested move the outcome far more than whether you contribute weekly or yearly. Don't let frequency-optimizing distract from the bigger levers.
07Should I trust these numbers?
Treat every figure here as a working estimate, not a promise. Real markets move in lurches, not smooth curves, and your own spending will shift too. Rerun the plan at least once a year and adjust as life changes.
This tool is for education and planning, not financial advice. For decisions about your own money, consider speaking with a licensed adviser.